Believe it or not, perms are making a comeback. If you grew up in the ‘80s, you’re probably all too familiar with the hair treatment: the spiral, tight curls formed by chemical processing that gave hair extra volume and oomph. While traditional perms are certainly still offered in many hair salons, nowadays, there’s another perm option available that gives hair a looser, more relaxed curl: a digital perm. Here, we get into why digital perms are the new perm, with insights from a celebrity hairstylist.
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What is a digital perm—and how is it different from a traditional perm?
Perms are known for their ability to create and define curls that last for months through chemical processing. With a digital perm, we’re not relying on the chemicals alone to create the curls; heat is added in as well. “A digital perm uses heated, digitally controlled rods to create soft, more natural-looking waves that are more defined when dry,” explains Jennifer Korab, a celebrity hairstylist, colorist, educator and Founder of Renaissance Salon & Spa.
The main difference between a traditional perm and a digital perm is the use of heat from the heated rods that accompanies a digital perm. Another difference between the two is that the heat allows for the type of curl and the curl pattern to be manipulated, allowing for softer, looser curls. “Compared to a traditional perm, which usually makes tighter curls using chemicals alone, the digital perm gives a looser, more relaxed finish,” affirms Korab. “It is the most suitable for medium to thick hair and offers a low-maintenance, air-dried look.”
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How a digital perm is done
First, the chemical solution is applied to the hair to soften the structure of the hair, which makes hair able to be reshaped, says Korab. “The hair is then wrapped around heated rods connected to a digital machine that controls the temperature and timing for each section. The heat helps set the new curl pattern into the hair,” she explains. “Once the desired shape is achieved, a neutralizer is applied to lock in the waves. The process itself is typically between 2.5 to 4 hours, but it depends on the hair’s length and density. The result is soft, natural-looking curls that become more defined as the hair dries.”
The benefits of a digital perm
As mentioned above, if you’re looking for softer curls/waves that look au naturel and are low maintenance (aside from just getting the treatment done), a digital perm may just be for you. Plus, these curls help give even flat hair extra volume. “The curls form best when the hair is dry, giving a relaxed, voluminous look without the need for a curling iron,” says Korab.
Another great advantage of a digital perm is that it’s long-lasting, Korab tells us. “It can last for several months, and the heat-controlled process allows for customized curl shapes and sizes.”
Even more, hair will look silky-smooth and curls will look more defined after a digital perm. “It also helps smooth the hair, reducing frizz and enhancing texture,” Korab explains.
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The best hair types for a digital perm (and who shouldn’t get one)
“A digital perm is best suited for healthy, medium to thick hair with some natural texture. It works well on straight to slightly wavy hair and is great for creating soft, low-maintenance waves,” says Korab. Since both chemicals and heat are used for a digital perm, it’s best to have thicker hair that can withstand it.
On the other hand, you may want to avoid a digital perm if your hair is thin and fragile. “It’s not the best option for very fine, bleached, over-processed or damaged hair, as the heat and chemicals can cause further damage,” warns Korab.
It’s important to note that digital perms, like any chemical treatment, can be damaging on all hair types, especially if not done by a professional. “If it’s not done correctly, it can lead to dryness, breakage or uneven curls,” Korab says. “Also, proper hair care is crucial to maintain the curls and avoid frizz.”
How to prolong and care for a digital perm
Just like how when you get your hair colored, you want to use products that won’t fade or strip your color, the same applies to a digital perm. Korab recommends washing your hair less, as well as ensuring you’re using a sulfate-free shampoo (sulfates can be stripping on hair). It’s also smart to use deep conditioning treatments every week to nourish and soften strands.
Additionally, “reduce heat styling to avoid weakening the curls and protect your hair from sun damage by wearing a hat or using UV-protective products,” advises Korab. “Sleeping on a silk or satin pillowcase can prevent frizz and preserve your curls, while avoiding tight hairstyles like ponytails or braids helps maintain the shape of the waves.”
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